The Requirements: Personally I like things plain, simple and stylish. I'm not into big bells and whistles! So the search begun for a case which was for the most part, all black and didn't have too many fancy extras associated with it. In the end I selected a case from V-Tech. Pictured to the left, my version does not have the same side panel. It is completely flat with no indentations or fan. This case was perfect in my opinion because it was plain and simple. The only possible problem was the word 'e-STAR' on the front. Luckily I had worked with this type of case before and was able to measure and inspect it before purchasing for this modification. The result was it was going to be perfect. I was already aware of Plasma Balls (aka Plasma Globes, Plasma Spheres) which were approximately three (3) inch in diameter which was going to be perfect for this case. Note: Every ball, while similar in overall size, is not perfectly round. Keep this in mind should you want to attempt this modification yourself.

The Cost: The Plasma Ball can be purchased from most novelty stores for around $20 Australian or of course on eBay for much the same price. Most (depending on size) will offer AA battery operation or mains power however this must be purchased separately. In my case, I used a 6V DC (1 Amp) power supply which cost around $25 Australian. The plastic boxes, switches, dc socket, wire and heat shrinkable material cost approximately $35. Assuming you already have the required soldering iron and solder, de-solder tape, glue, alligator clips, files, wet and dry sandpaper and drill/drill bits, you should not need any other tools (other than a standard screwdriver) for this modification. Total cost: $85. Case  Preparation: As the saying goes: "Prior planing prevents piss poor performance!". The same can be said when modifying a computer case. Because the ball itself is not perfectly round, I measured the average diameter and made the relevant markings on the outside of the case. Then traced around the ball itself, ensuring I didn't exceed the pre-measured area. You could use a hole saw to cut the plastic case and then file the excess off however I choose to tackle it a different way. I drilled small holes around the inner edge of the marking and then filed any excess or sharp edges. This way, I could adjust any specific area depending on how the ball would fit. Once I was happy with the overall shape, I used a combination of wet and dry sandpaper to create a smooth finish. I then drilled the metal chassis of the case so the small end of the ball, could be fitted. A rubber insert, which came with the ball originally, was inserted into the hole to insulate the ball from the metal as well as offer a nice tight fit. Note: Make sure the hole you cut is not too large as you want a tight fit. To remove the front panel of the case, you must first remove the ball hence gluing it is not an option. The switches and dc socket sit in a small black box which is located next to the power supply. This was completed at the end of the modification once everything had been tested.

Preparing the ball: The PCB which controls the plasma ball is made in China and of poor quality. When handling the board you have to be very careful as the second picture indicates. The last wire which connects to the board containing the switch, broke from simply adjusting the position of both boards.  Click on any of the images to enlarge:
Once the board had been removed, I removed the old wires and replaced them with a medium duty wire. This was threaded through some heat shrink tubing to provide good cable management and add to the professionalism of the modification. In total six (6) wires. Four to control the switch and two for the power. The original ball has a 'sound activation' feature which is controlled by the same switch which turns the unit on and off. I however used two switches as I wanted to control this feature separately. You could of course just find a multi-pole switch should you want to stick with the same set up.

Because I wanted to maintain a clean finish on the front of the case and have no intention of installing fan controllers or things of this nature, it was decided that the switches be placed at the rear of the case. They are located in a small black box (cost $3) screwed to the side of the Power Supply Unit (PSU). This keeps them out of the way of other components and offers easy access to control the ball. In the top of the plastic case, all six (6) wires which are surrounded by the heat shrinkable tubing, come out and are led over the top of the PSU between the gap of that and the top of the case and then down the side panel and drive bay into the second black box which controls the ball itself. This offers a very tidy appearance for the whole project. Because the inside of the metal case has been spray painted black, should a side panel window be installed, cosmetically it will look fantastic and you will not notice any of the wires or boxes.

The End Result: I'm sure you will agree this case looks fantastic! It almost looks like it belongs there! Future modifications can include a side panel with suitable lighting should you want to finish the job but, in my opinion, I like it just the way it is.